It may be reasonably difficult to actually shock the style crowd, however shocked it was when Bottega Veneta introduced it might be parting methods with designer Daniel Lee in Nov. 2021.
Lee had, after all, put the Italian home on the map along with his designs, making it so common that it virtually printed its personal cash — which made the circumstances surrounding Lee’s departure all of the extra mysterious.
Regardless, Lee was out, and Bottega Veneta swiftly named Matthieu Blazy to take his place on the helm. He was a pure match, having served because the model’s ready-to-wear design director since 2020 and coming with expertise at labels like Raf Simons, Maison Martin Margiela and Céline (with the accent, thanks). In some ways, it was a home-run arrange: All Blazy must do, actually, is step into the artistic director function and preserve churning out the type of hits that had been fueling Bottega Veneta’s progress over the previous few years.
It is onerous to think about that will be an thrilling prospect for a designer keen to place their very own stamp on a model, regardless of how a lot trickier that line is perhaps to toe. However Blazy dove headfirst into that problem for Fall 2022, his first assortment for Bottega Veneta.
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“Bottega Veneta is in essence pragmatic as a result of it’s a leather-based items firm. As a result of it specialises in baggage it’s about motion, of going someplace; there’s essentially an concept of craft in movement,” Blazy stated within the present notes. “It’s model over vogue in its timelessness. That’s a part of its quiet energy.”
Unsurprisingly, the majority of his focus falls on purses and footwear, these must-have objects that appear to fly off cabinets. Blazy shifts away from the types that made his predecessor so profitable, and places his personal tweaks on a number of the model’s signature woven leather-based “intreccio” items, increasing it out to incorporate bucket baggage and thigh-high boots. The place the leather-based strips usually sit extra flat, his have depth and dimensionality to them, nonetheless fantastically made however much less formal in feeling. There is a continuation of the “pillow” types, now blown-up into additional massive proportions.
Elsewhere, the ready-to-wear experiments with new concepts, comparable to “denim” items which can be really leather-based printed with photo-realistic detailing and button-downs manufactured from the identical materials. Feather-like explosions of leather-based fringe seem at shoulders and lining beneath leather-based skirts (the latter pair fantastically with knit tops in seems to be which can be absolutely destined for the pink carpet). The lower of jackets and coats create attention-grabbing shapes, however the tailoring retains all the things grounded in a wearable realm.
It was a superb debut for Blazy, imperfections and all (there was maybe one too many concepts current; whereas enjoyable, the sheer and sequined clothes in the direction of the tip did not really feel like they belonged with what preceded them). Whereas it’s going to be onerous to know the way effectively these seems to be are obtained till they hit retail, little doubt Bottega Veneta feels happy with its choice at hand him the reins.
See the entire Bottega Veneta Fall 2022 assortment within the gallery beneath:
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